Portugal- Portily Ours

Who feels guilty about a vacation...well ... we are doctors and my boy is taking his boards this year....so anhedonia is what we should feel all the time and here we were headed to a voyager nirvana

 Portugal had a real strong contender...our guilty conscience...

Portugal was a vacation planned by the confluence of cosmos for us ...we are Goans ,so we think we are quasi Portuguese...Amol’s Nephrology paper got selected for the Porto Clinical Nephrology Update ,the only Indian amongst 25 other papers.....ADi ‘s  10 days school break coincided perfectly, (so what if we landed from the airport to the Examination Hall)....Hence we had to do this...so perfectly planned by the cosmos cannot be let go by mere mortals.....

We did our usual Qatar airways route, where we Chandran Mahaldars believe that the journey is more important than the destination itself. We landed in Lisbon in good time, to experience the funicular, Elevador de Santa Justa. The Elevador de Santa Justa was designed by Raul Mesnier de Ponsard , a student of the great iron craftsman Gustav Eiffel(The Eiffel tower guy) and just as popular . This Iron Masterpiece is a work of art that leads us to the most romantic photo point with the finest views of central Lisbon, against the setting sun spreading sepia tones are memories to be held on forever

Our next destination was the day long trip to the mystical city of Sintra...A train ride away from the city transports one into an erstwhile royal sanctuary replete with forested terrains , castles and opulent mansions.The Palacio National da Pena has a Disneyland feel to it with a vividly painted exterior . The most beautiful green Chandelier of morning glory vines and an ornate Kings bed were my favourites. 
A winding walk along the castle ruins of The Castelo dos Mouros was long, tiring but exhilarating...did not know that was even possible.

Castelo dos Mouros

The Quinta da Regaleria , a lavish mansion that contain hidden tunnels and secretive religious symbolism...The nine platforms of the well of initiation quickly pointed out as the Dante’s nine circles of  Hell by my teen son without any prelude set me questioning.... am I the Devil and  is he the Devil's son ...hence knows all about Hell...symbolism, enchantment, mysticism QdR has it all.

Quinta da Regaleria

well of initiation

kiss under a holly

A late night tram 28 ride around Lisbon with my leaden legs but Amols unebbed enthusiasm(never the case), made sure we did not miss any “touristy things to do”. Our souls were resuscitated only with wafting varied Portuguese cuisines in the Time Out Market..a Gastronomic Gourmet Extravaganza which runs all night

Our last day in Lisbon had us taking a bus in the opposite direction due to a moments disagreement in the family . But local travel in a bus full of  geriatric population (the bus was headed to the Hospital de Santa Maria, probably they were busbound  to collect their meds) was just as amusing. When on a holiday even wrong things seem so right.

Jeronimos monastery 

Jeronimos monastery where Vasco da Gama finally rests also has an interesting history. Santa Maria de Belem ( Jeronimo's monastery is an extension of this chapel), was the church VdG visited with his sailors before his  first voyage to India . Not so lucky the third time , VdG died in Kochi and buried there in the first ever church of Asia (St Francis Church, Kochi) . A voyager even in afterlife, he was exhumed and shipped to the current resting place in Lisbon. Incidentally we visited his birthplace Sines enroute to Lagos. And to complete the Chandran Mahaldar  branch of the story of VdG.... we live in Vasco da Gama, Goa...a place we call home (a place VdG apparently never set foot on)

VdG tomb

 Padrao dos Descobrimentos , a grand monument on the banks of Tejus  Estuary  romanticises  the voyages of Age of Discovery . For our side of the world it was the age of  the complete elimination of Arab traders and silenced Indian Kingdoms.

Padrao dos Descobrimentos

Tower of Belem was once a Fortress , now a landmark in Lisbon. The rhinoceros gargoyle on it's western facade has an interesting story. In 1514 Afonso de Albuquerque(of 'the Alfonso mango' fame) was gifted a rhino by the Sultan of Gujarat. Unable to care for the ”gift” in Goa he shipped it his King in Portugal.To validate the Ancient Roman stories of deadly rivalry between elephants and rhinos, the King organised a public duel between the 2 animals. The elephant panicked and ran away , the rhino securing his place as the mightiest beast of all and a gargoyle on the ToB.

Tower of Belem

The pink street, aka tarmac painted pink is the trendy nightlife party place of Lisbon. We visited during the day and the street was deserted except a Café. It was on my wish list only for the colourful feed it makes for my blog. While I was busy posing for candid pics a drug peddler approached Amol with his wares. We gathered our wits and walked away as nonchalantly as we could.

A walk by the river to reach Praca do Comercio holds so many Buskers, Street art, photo stops. 

A photo of the photographer@Praca do Comercio

Portuguese have this crazy affinity for cod fish...they have so many dishes churned out of that one fish, starting from starters to  dessert I was left wondering if they have a toothpaste of bacalhao flavour as well....start the day with their fave flavour. 

Ajulejo tiled corrider @ our accomodation

Good Morning Lisboa

view from our apartment

Our accommodation in Lisbon was in the old Alfama district famed for its traditional cafes. The apartment was old but the amenities so futuristic and ergonomic that NASA would be inspired. The smallest kitchen I had seen till date but had all the appliances fitted in a 3*3 sq feet area. The unrivalled views of the river Tagus and  the red tiled rooftops,  the white apartment, Ajuleo tiled corridor, the old flatmate who “bonita”ed my gown ..Cabbies of Lisbon are probably the best car parkers in the world....narrow cobbled streets with such tight parking...they aced it all like a scene from the movies....Lisbon  made me feel like the Bond girl....beautiful blithe bimbette in an exotic locale....

Acting the Bond Girl

Our ride in POrtugal

We picked our car from Lisbon and headed to Lagos...Well that was the intention but ……..We circled every flyover out of Lisbon , Amol tried his best to keep calm, I played out the bimbette bit to the hilt and Adi blissfully unaware of the rising tension in the Merc  wanted to play music till we got out of town, (musical navigation maybe). Finally we got out of Lisbon(probably  Lisbon just rearranged her roads so that we could just drive away) and reached Sines. Completing the entire life cycle of Vasco da Gama with some lovely local fresh grilled fish  served with beet looking sweet potaoes from a local Café. 

Sines-Birthplace of VdG

Along the western coast of Portugal...Google maps figured out finally, a song on our lips and a proud chest we reached Vincentine coast. Europe's lands end and the vast Atlantic ocean ….lending the monicker "the last sausage before America" to a food van there

...Steep vertical drops that make great locales for breeze blown gowns stills of Hindi Movies....green waters....sea spray rising so high.....winds that make pebbles defy gravity....Credit to Mr Bond aka Amol for planning this road trip so well.

Praia @ Lagos

Lagos was our night halt....a beach town where our self check in had a key in a number locked container....written Instructions to the T from the host like Bond movies again. I half expected some secret documents hidden in the microwave. 

We got Merc bound to Faro ….interesting limestone rock formations by the sea, most photographed Portuguese landscape . We picked some stones that had shells embedded in them, got lots more photos...even the boys cooperated this time...

Nossa Senhora Fathima...her elusive secrets that beats the Da Vinci code....the religious fervour that transcends  all  faiths was the right break for a 350 km in 3 hours ride

Fatima

Batalha has a Gothic monastery but of greater interest are cycling routes which someday I hope to return to fulfil my pedal dreams

cycling routes @ Batalha...pedal list

Porto- raison d'etre

The reason of our visit, Amols Nephrology Congress, 

The origin of the country's name Portugal

The source of Porto wine

The home of FC Porto

Adi and me explored it mainly by foot along the Duoro river, over popcorn and lots of mom son bonding.

The sights of note are the Palacio da Bolsa, erstwhile stock exchange of the rich port .The guided tour by a good humoured youngster, opulent Arabic room kept intact along with  the Gustav Eiffel room when he lived in POrto , plaster feigning as wood, a ton weighing chandelier doubles up as a venue for banquets for the HNWI and state heads

Porto has 6 bridges along the Douro river.

Dom Luis 1 the double decker bridge designed by Gustav Eiffel partner and hence influenced greatly by the master. I am an Eiffelophile ...so kindly bear the Eiffel excesses

Livraria Lello bookstore , the most beautiful bookstore in the world, frequented by Jk Rowling has an entry fee to step in to the wonderland.

The narrowest building , between the Carmo and the Carmelite churches , blends right in , almost hidden, has a broad impact.

We drove along the grapevine countryside of the Douro region....winding roads drive up to the heavens almost , the car kissing the clouds intoxicated by the POrto wine....we ate The francesinha a typical Porto dish, consisting of multiple layers of beef, ham, bacon, sausage, egg and dough, drenched in tomato and beer sauce, in a countryside cafe

foosball @ a local cafe

Coimbra - the university town of Porto had the Latada festival on the day of our visit. The freshers are welcomed with a week long festivities and baptized in the Mondego river. The number of students that spilled onto the streets that day could have easily finished the waters of Mondego. A small snack in Church converted to a Cafe, right in the eye of the boisterous Latada had us screaming at the top of voices to be heard The  Harry Potters long black cloak is influenced by this festival when JkR stayed in Portugal.  

Nazare - Another beach resort , cold green waters, home to 100 feet waves attract the best and bravest surfers. We were happy sampling live barnacles and bolos de Belem.

chilling in the afternoon sun

a diva moment...…


                                    saying our vows again...…







 We reached in good time to Mafra luckily......luckily because it was one the most exotic stays in all life and we would not have been able to appreciate it at night. We stayed in a windmill.

A windmill we called home for a night

windmill attic

Yes , you read it right...an old windmill now converted into a 2bhk, kitchen and bath...with all the amenities...swimming pool, love seat under the full moon, landscaped gardens and horses on trot.....A freezing swim in the pool by moonlight, an occasional dog howling at the moon, moonlight dinner...what a fine finish to a fantastic holiday

The Portugal trip was meant to be......guilt tried hard...….but Portugal won hands down 


PS- I have to acknowledge all things that went wrong too

poor lad had exams the next day

Adi had his head buried in books in the car and every night(we had exams to answer), we left Alexa remote in Porto, we forgot a Thank You gift at the airport and it compounded my sadness of a vacation ending many more times, Adi developed red eyes from watching too much inflight entertainment and an ophthalm friend suggested dehydration could be a cause, and I had Adi drinking so much water that the poor kid was running to the loo like a diabetic, we had our usual skirmishes vacation or Portugal notwithstanding, I realised my A2 level in Portuguese is only worth saying Obrigado but still....Eternal Voyagers we remain