Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Road trip to Raigad

Disclaimer - Do not read any further if you among those who complain about the Goan roads
Day 1-Drive to Ganpati Pule
A pleasant and a beautiful drive that speeds of 100kmph felt like snails pace. Besides driving a few km extra on account of missing the ACTUAL turn to GP from the highway(not really our fault as there were atleast 5 signboards pointing to GP at various points) we had a song on our lips and warmth in our hearts. We saw the sun set on the plateau instead on the GP beach but we were not really far away from the destination and hence not too disappointed.
The hotel accommodation got proportionately better as the distance from the temple increased and probably that was the best night halt in Maharashtra in retrospect.
The temple is by the beach at the heel of a small hill . Circumambulation of the holy hill is a wish granter and we too did our share. The Ganesh idol on a solid rock was probably first sighted by a person with a really vivid imagination but the place does evoke a sense of divinity even in a quasi atheist.
we did get some good Maharashtrian fare but the fact that the entire Maharashtrian coast served pohe and usal wore us down rather quickly.

Day 2-Drive to Nowhere and by the way Harihareshwar
Enthused by our previous day's road time we hit the coastal highway with all gusto and Google maps leading the way. The entire highway is dotted with forts and temples that it is difficult to chose which ones to visit. The Chamundi temple is one of a kind where the deity is in a cave lit only by a soft glowing oil lamp. Fumbling down a few steps in sheer darkness the eyes meet the goddess glowing in all her glory with a child like face. Divine.
For all those men who swear by the GPRS than the simple stopping to ask for directions here is an eye opener. The roads were winding along the coastline and romantic by the morning sun. They were winding and boring by the afternoon. As the sun was fast setting in the jungles of Kelshi Velshi highway the same winding roads got spooky. A hand placed casually on the  shoulder and an innocuous joke about the tress possessing evil spirits riled up the bravest of us in the car. All the while Google Maps kept reassuring us to stay put on K-V highway(not that we had a choice - the options were between the devil and the deep sea literally)
The luckiest part of the day was when we caught an hourly ferry just before it left the jetty in daylight,  that  we were so relieved and goaded our luck. How little it takes for optimistic individuals to forgive bad dusty roads, a day long body battering and the abuse of our much loved new car . And hence un expectantly and forcibly we had to halt at Harihareshwar where the ruling deity is the family God of the Peshwas. We were in time for the Maha Arati and were witness to the Maharashtrian mujra form of greeting used to worship the God by the priest. A hill by the sea where circumambulation is considered holy is present here too. As most of the path is covered during high tide and hence dangerous we decided to give this one a skip.

Day 3- Finally to Raigad
12  hours behind schedule and our expectations of good roads tempered down but not our spirits we saw the sun rise on the Sahayadri peaks. Even the Maharashtrian breakfast options on the highway seemed not so bad. Raigad ropeway and the fort maybe just another tourist attraction for anyone but for the Maharashtrians it is a Pilgrimage. The slogans hailing Shivaji Maharaj and people dressed in traditional attire singing praises of the great Maratha warrior evokes feelings of pride even in the non initiated. The stories regaling Shivaji's valour passionately narrated by the guides on the fort and the great pictures against the sun and the Sahyadris definitely adds Raigad in the bucket list of the Indian tourist.A night spent on the fort helps soak in the sights of the day and the moon buffs it for eternity.

Day 4 - Raigad retains but Goa beckons
 The difficulty of building the massive structure and the far sightedness of  the great king leaves one awestruck. The respect for his mother, love for his people and the passion for his religion earned this King popularity that reverberates even today at the fort and the coast.
The road back was uneventful mostly because we relied on human instinct rather than the maps of Google and the thought of better roads in Goa brought back the joy and song in our hearts again.

Monday, September 21, 2015

Blithe Budapest

Budapest is mass tourism's best kept secret.Every girls dream is to visit the Eiffel tower with her beau but Budapest snakes it way right to the top. Be it the symphony at the St Stephan's Basilica or the wine tasting in one of the cozy local wine bars ( more about both later)  redefines ones idea of the most romantic moments. 
Spend the morning in one of Budapest natural underground caves, which were formed by thermal waters over millions of years. So one can actually touch and feel the earth that was there a million years ago.Stalactites, stalagmites , columns, ribbons and curtains in the caves makes boring geography lessons in school so cool.  Filled with spectacular formations, with even more imaginative names rattled by the friendly guide, the caves provide a cool(the temperature was 10 C inside the cave) respite from the summer sun.
Rise with the sun and head to  the Gellért Bath. Take a dip in one of the thermal baths or enjoy a unique spa experience. Its columned, Roman-style swimming pool looks familiar. Is it because of the historical romance by the pool described in the M&B or maybe it is just the most photographed spa of Hungary.
The Rock Hospital in the Buda Castle is like a cupcake to the history seeking soul. The history of the emergency hospital goes back to World War II. The caves and tunnels, connected and fortified were initially used as an air raid shelter. Then a 60 bedded hospital was built which housed more than 600 patients during the war.The doctors and nurses worked with the state of art medical and surgical facilities and sheer grit during the Budapest Siege of WW II and the Revolution to treat wounded civilians and soldiers. A modern Anesthesia delivery machine with complete Operation Theatre equipment in the winding caves with stories of the war heroism explained dramatically by the guide made my idea of working at a war front even more romantic..Someday me too ,.... Later in the 60's it was expanded to withstand potential chemical and nuclear attacks during the Cold War.Thankfully never once was it used as a nuclear bunker.
The Budapest Parliament building is a beauty etched in stone and decorated with turrets and arches . The nation's home is grand and befitting . Guided tours are done so professionally that the oohs and aahs that the magnificent parliament evokes from tourists seem the norm. What is amazing is that no building was left undamaged after the WW II but they rebuilt it all to its former glory within a year of ending war.
St Stephan basilica, built to match the parliament in height and glory shows the equality between God and the state.The mummified 1000 years old right hand of St. Stephan, the founder of Hungary, leaves one with goose bumps 
Evenings should be exclusively reserved for tasting the wines in one of the local restaurants. 
Hungarians are such sweet people.Am sure it is the lovely wines that flows in their veins. Volcanic soils, balmy summers ,the royal rot and what not. But the Tokaji wine got me at hello. Walks by the Danube hand in hand with the skies changing from yellow to purple and the castles and the bridges lighting up.......time  just stood still ...lo behold ,,,,,this was my Eiffel moment.
The Parliament House
 

The Assembly

Cigar holder with numbers for identification

Shoes by the Danube

St Stephan Basilica

View from the Buda castle
My Eiffel moment

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Prague- ooh pure pleasure

Well it is a corruption of the Czech tourism's tag line but there is no other way i would describe it. The cobbled streets , the spires reaching the skies with the stubborn summer sun refusing to set is pure ecstasy. The old town square surrounded by churches, clocks  and chimes with live performances by buskers transport one into a trance.Whoever said love is an emotion. The air in Prague is so laden with it.We can even eat it dipped in chocolate sauce. Drink one of the many beers and feel love wash all over oneself.
Prague is a town to be explored on foot. The place names are so Czech that one cannot say or understand them. How does one pronounce a proper noun with 5 consonants and 1 vowel added as an afterthought.The labyrinthine metro stations tires one out and the steep escalators are a ride direct to heaven especially for a person who has bathmophobia . The trams are quaint and rides romantic.It is so easy to get lost on the right hand drive roads due to the diametrically opposite directions orientation in this part of the globe.But getting lost and discovering another beautiful hidden corner adds to the mystique of Prague .
Local cuisine matches up to the beauty of the place. Cafe Louvre where the likes of Einstein and Kafka dined lived up to its hype.
Charles Bridge at twilight is straight out of a fairy tale.
Charles Bridge

Add caption
Kafka Residence N 22

Prague-the way I remember by

LOve so deep that it can drown

Stairs to hell at the metro

Café Louvre
So much so that one starts to wait for the pumpkin carriage to arrive and whisk us to the midnight party at the castle across the bridge.
Love dipped in chocolate sauce(Trdelnik)

Old town Square

View from the Old town hall tower

Cant get enuf of Old town Square

Beer in a local pub-Drink LOve

Prague Castle

St.Vitus Cathedral