Disclaimer - Do not read any further if you among those who complain about the Goan roads
Day 1-Drive to Ganpati Pule
A pleasant and a beautiful drive that speeds of 100kmph felt like snails pace. Besides driving a few km extra on account of missing the ACTUAL turn to GP from the highway(not really our fault as there were atleast 5 signboards pointing to GP at various points) we had a song on our lips and warmth in our hearts. We saw the sun set on the plateau instead on the GP beach but we were not really far away from the destination and hence not too disappointed.
The hotel accommodation got proportionately better as the distance from the temple increased and probably that was the best night halt in Maharashtra in retrospect.
The temple is by the beach at the heel of a small hill . Circumambulation of the holy hill is a wish granter and we too did our share. The Ganesh idol on a solid rock was probably first sighted by a person with a really vivid imagination but the place does evoke a sense of divinity even in a quasi atheist.
we did get some good Maharashtrian fare but the fact that the entire Maharashtrian coast served pohe and usal wore us down rather quickly.
Day 2-Drive to Nowhere and by the way Harihareshwar
Enthused by our previous day's road time we hit the coastal highway with all gusto and Google maps leading the way. The entire highway is dotted with forts and temples that it is difficult to chose which ones to visit. The Chamundi temple is one of a kind where the deity is in a cave lit only by a soft glowing oil lamp. Fumbling down a few steps in sheer darkness the eyes meet the goddess glowing in all her glory with a child like face. Divine.
For all those men who swear by the GPRS than the simple stopping to ask for directions here is an eye opener. The roads were winding along the coastline and romantic by the morning sun. They were winding and boring by the afternoon. As the sun was fast setting in the jungles of Kelshi Velshi highway the same winding roads got spooky. A hand placed casually on the shoulder and an innocuous joke about the tress possessing evil spirits riled up the bravest of us in the car. All the while Google Maps kept reassuring us to stay put on K-V highway(not that we had a choice - the options were between the devil and the deep sea literally)
The luckiest part of the day was when we caught an hourly ferry just before it left the jetty in daylight, that we were so relieved and goaded our luck. How little it takes for optimistic individuals to forgive bad dusty roads, a day long body battering and the abuse of our much loved new car . And hence un expectantly and forcibly we had to halt at Harihareshwar where the ruling deity is the family God of the Peshwas. We were in time for the Maha Arati and were witness to the Maharashtrian mujra form of greeting used to worship the God by the priest. A hill by the sea where circumambulation is considered holy is present here too. As most of the path is covered during high tide and hence dangerous we decided to give this one a skip.
Day 3- Finally to Raigad
12 hours behind schedule and our expectations of good roads tempered down but not our spirits we saw the sun rise on the Sahayadri peaks. Even the Maharashtrian breakfast options on the highway seemed not so bad. Raigad ropeway and the fort maybe just another tourist attraction for anyone but for the Maharashtrians it is a Pilgrimage. The slogans hailing Shivaji Maharaj and people dressed in traditional attire singing praises of the great Maratha warrior evokes feelings of pride even in the non initiated. The stories regaling Shivaji's valour passionately narrated by the guides on the fort and the great pictures against the sun and the Sahyadris definitely adds Raigad in the bucket list of the Indian tourist.A night spent on the fort helps soak in the sights of the day and the moon buffs it for eternity.
Day 4 - Raigad retains but Goa beckons
The difficulty of building the massive structure and the far sightedness of the great king leaves one awestruck. The respect for his mother, love for his people and the passion for his religion earned this King popularity that reverberates even today at the fort and the coast.
The road back was uneventful mostly because we relied on human instinct rather than the maps of Google and the thought of better roads in Goa brought back the joy and song in our hearts again.
Day 1-Drive to Ganpati Pule
A pleasant and a beautiful drive that speeds of 100kmph felt like snails pace. Besides driving a few km extra on account of missing the ACTUAL turn to GP from the highway(not really our fault as there were atleast 5 signboards pointing to GP at various points) we had a song on our lips and warmth in our hearts. We saw the sun set on the plateau instead on the GP beach but we were not really far away from the destination and hence not too disappointed.
The hotel accommodation got proportionately better as the distance from the temple increased and probably that was the best night halt in Maharashtra in retrospect.
The temple is by the beach at the heel of a small hill . Circumambulation of the holy hill is a wish granter and we too did our share. The Ganesh idol on a solid rock was probably first sighted by a person with a really vivid imagination but the place does evoke a sense of divinity even in a quasi atheist.
we did get some good Maharashtrian fare but the fact that the entire Maharashtrian coast served pohe and usal wore us down rather quickly.
Day 2-Drive to Nowhere and by the way Harihareshwar
Enthused by our previous day's road time we hit the coastal highway with all gusto and Google maps leading the way. The entire highway is dotted with forts and temples that it is difficult to chose which ones to visit. The Chamundi temple is one of a kind where the deity is in a cave lit only by a soft glowing oil lamp. Fumbling down a few steps in sheer darkness the eyes meet the goddess glowing in all her glory with a child like face. Divine.
For all those men who swear by the GPRS than the simple stopping to ask for directions here is an eye opener. The roads were winding along the coastline and romantic by the morning sun. They were winding and boring by the afternoon. As the sun was fast setting in the jungles of Kelshi Velshi highway the same winding roads got spooky. A hand placed casually on the shoulder and an innocuous joke about the tress possessing evil spirits riled up the bravest of us in the car. All the while Google Maps kept reassuring us to stay put on K-V highway(not that we had a choice - the options were between the devil and the deep sea literally)
The luckiest part of the day was when we caught an hourly ferry just before it left the jetty in daylight, that we were so relieved and goaded our luck. How little it takes for optimistic individuals to forgive bad dusty roads, a day long body battering and the abuse of our much loved new car . And hence un expectantly and forcibly we had to halt at Harihareshwar where the ruling deity is the family God of the Peshwas. We were in time for the Maha Arati and were witness to the Maharashtrian mujra form of greeting used to worship the God by the priest. A hill by the sea where circumambulation is considered holy is present here too. As most of the path is covered during high tide and hence dangerous we decided to give this one a skip.
Day 3- Finally to Raigad
12 hours behind schedule and our expectations of good roads tempered down but not our spirits we saw the sun rise on the Sahayadri peaks. Even the Maharashtrian breakfast options on the highway seemed not so bad. Raigad ropeway and the fort maybe just another tourist attraction for anyone but for the Maharashtrians it is a Pilgrimage. The slogans hailing Shivaji Maharaj and people dressed in traditional attire singing praises of the great Maratha warrior evokes feelings of pride even in the non initiated. The stories regaling Shivaji's valour passionately narrated by the guides on the fort and the great pictures against the sun and the Sahyadris definitely adds Raigad in the bucket list of the Indian tourist.A night spent on the fort helps soak in the sights of the day and the moon buffs it for eternity.
Day 4 - Raigad retains but Goa beckons
The difficulty of building the massive structure and the far sightedness of the great king leaves one awestruck. The respect for his mother, love for his people and the passion for his religion earned this King popularity that reverberates even today at the fort and the coast.
The road back was uneventful mostly because we relied on human instinct rather than the maps of Google and the thought of better roads in Goa brought back the joy and song in our hearts again.
Temple tours are generally not my cuppa, but a deity in pitch darkness and a temple that might get you carried away in high tide as you circumambulate certainly sound exciting.
ReplyDeleteYou observation about Google maps is very accurate..it is not 100% reliable when once you have left the city lights behind.